Apparatus for processing collars or other articles of apparel



Aug. 17, 1937.

B. LlEBOWlTZ 2,090,369

APPARATUS FOR PROCESSING COLLARS OR OTHER ARTICLES 0F APPAREL Filed Nov. 30, 1934 7 Sheets-Sheet 1 ATTORNEY APPARATUS FOR PROCESSING COLLARS OR OTHER ARTICLES 0F APPAREL B. LIEBOWITZ Aug. 17, 1937.

Filed Nov. 30, 1934 '7 Sheets-Sheet 2 6 w 4 M w M r 4 l NH HI WHY w m W n 2 m a l u "n m u n u m u 2 n W m v I 0 3 M 3 7 e w 2 J WM 8 a y 2 INVENTOR F/Vl/AM/N l/ssawlrz. 2

ATI'ORN EY L I i I w B. LIEBOWITZ APPARATUS FOR PROCESSING COLLARS OR OTHER ARTICLES OF APPAREL Filed Nov. 30, 1934 'r Sheets-Sheet s lNV ENTOR B'Ah/A M//\ Z lEBOW/ 72.

ATTORNEY B. L'IEBOWITZ Aug. 17, 1937.

APPARATUS FOR PROCESSING COLLARS OR OTHER ARTICLES OF APPAREL Filed NOV. 50, 1934 T Sheets-Sheet 4 INV ENTOR BE'A/uA M//\/ 1 A58 ow/rz ll QM A'lTORNEY 1937- B. LlEBOWlTZ 2,090,369

APPARATUS FOR PROCESSING COLLARS OR OTHER ARTICLES OF APPAREL Filed Nov. 30, 1954 7 Sheets-Sheet 5 INVENTOR w99 BEA/MA M/N A usaow/ 7-2 LAW ATTORNEY B. LIEBOWITZ Aug. 17, 1937.

APPARATUS FOR PROCESSING COLLARS OR OTHER ARTICLES OF APPAREL Filed Nov. 30, 1934 7 Sheets-Sheet 6 INVENTOR BLQVJAMI/V l mason #2.

ATTORNEY Aug. 17, 1937.

B. LIEBOWITZ APPARATUS FOR PROCESSING COLLARS OR OTHER ARTICLES OF APPAREL Filed NOV. 30, 1934 Ilil I m 5 I '7 Sheets-Sheet 7 INVENTOR L 5E/Vd/1 M/N 1 055014472. 1 BY g Mum 7s ATTORNEY Patented Aug. 1'1, 1937 UNITED. STATES PATENT OFFICE APPARATUS FOR PROCESSING COLLARS 0R OTHER ARTICLES OF APPAREL Benjamin Liebowitz, New York, N. Y.,.as signor to Trubenizing Process Corporation, New

York,

N. Y., a corporation of New York Application November 30, 1934, Serial No. 755,276

7 Claims.

tive yarns associated therewith, and in whichthe adhesive material is rendered adhesive by the application of a solvent to the external sur- 15 faces of the garment part,'I have foundthat a pronounced improvement in adhesion is obtained when the garment part is subjected to mechanical pressure while it is wet-with solvent. Preferably, the pressurev is applied at the time that 20 the solvent is applied. Furthermore, by the application of pressure simultaneous with the application of solvent, the amount of solvent which the garment partatakes [up may be regulated in asimple manner, as will be explained later.

A primary object of this invention is to provide method and apparatus for the simultaneous application of solvent and mechanical pressure to such garment parts. A second 'object is to provide means for regulating the amount of 30 solvent taken up by the garment-part. A third object is. to provide a mechanism wherein these other objects can be readily achieved, and fur,

thermore, to provide ai niechanism wherein the operations can be performed with maximum out- 35 put and minimum effort for factory purposes.

A fourth object is to provide a machine which will such solvents into the atmosphere.

.. quickly introducing the garment partsinto the machine and likewise withdrawing the garment parts upon completion of the operation, with 'a minimum of escape of the vapors of the solvent.

I 45 Another object is to provide amachine which will function quickly and reliably under .factory conditions.

' These,-aslwell as other, objects are attained by means of the mechanism hereinafter described and illustrated :in the accompa ying drawings,

in which: .1 a

Fig; -1 is a vertical cross-section of the ma.- chine taken on the line l-l of Fig. 2;

55 Fig. 2 is a side elevation of the machine;

Fig. 3 is a front elevation of the head of the machine; I

Fig. 4 is an enlarged vertical cross-section of the head taken on the line 4-4 of Fig. 3, showing the tray mechanism in its in position in full lines, and in its out position in dotanddash lines;

Fig. 5 is a top plan viewof a tray mechanism for inserting the collar into the machine;

Fig. 6 is a fragmentary rear view,-with cover broken away, showing the ratchet drive for the belt mechanism;

Fig. 7 is a fragmentary vertical cross-section on the line 'l| of Figure 1;

Fig. 8 is afragmentaryhorizontal cross-sec-v tion on the. line 8-8 of Figure 1';

Fig. '9 is a verticalcross-sectionthrdugh the. I a

center line of one of the operating'valves;

Fig. 10 is a diagrammatic view of the piping layout for the compressed air lines; and

Fig. 11 is a cross-sectional diagrammatic view showing a modified construction of the head of the machine. k i

Referring tov Figs. 1 to 10, I represents a hollow casting which comprises the head of the machine and which is supported by .a pair of A-shaped frame members 2. Bolted to the inher top surface of the casting l is a plate 3 which constitutes the upperplaten of theme.- chine. 4 is a casting which is carried on the rod 5' and-formsthe 'lower platen of the machine. -6 is an endless belt of cotton or other suitable material, whose thickness is afactor in the amount of moisture delivered to the work as will be subsequently described, The belt 6 runs over the driving pulley I, and pulleys 8,,9, I0, ll, l2 and I3. .Two pulleys III and II are carried on the lower platen 4 and ride up 'and downwith said platen. The two pulleys 9 and I! are carried on swinging arms l4 and l5 and are pivoted at 16 and I1, thereby permitting the belt to rise and fallwith the lower platen 4. The pulleys 9 and I2, furthermore, dip into wells f8 and I9 which are for'medin the bottom of the head I of'the machine. These wells contain the liquid solvent 20, so thatas the belt'moves it picks up the solvent. with each strokegpf the machine, the belt, is moved a suflicient distance so as to bring freshly wetted portions of the belt between the platens 3 and 4. The belt 6 is maintained under tensionby means .of

springs 2|. operating. through levers 22 on each.

of the arms l4 and I5. It will'be observed that theupper horizontal portion of the belt G'travels very close to the upper platen 3, while the lower horizontal portion of the belt is positioned by the pulleys l and II so as to travel very close to the upper surface of the lower platen 4. Between the upper and lower horizontal portions of the .5 belt is a clear space for the movement of the tray mechanism which carries the work.

The'tray mechanism comprises a frame work consisting of two parallel horizontal bars 23 connected together substantially at their ends by the cross pieces 24. Aflixed to each cross piece 24 is a series of small springs 25, which serveto keep under .tension a group of threads or yarns 26 which may be of any suitable material such as cotton, silk, linen, or even of metal, as, for example, fine piano wire. Upon the worksupport provided by the threads ,26 the work to be treated is laid. The object of this construction is to provide a work-support containing the minimum possible amount of material and which will at the same time permit free access of the solvent to the work from underneath. It should be borne in 'mind that in a machine of this kind there must be no-material obstruction of the passage of solvent from the belt into the work; and likewise, that the amount of solvent carried out into the air with each stroke of the machine, when the work is carried out of the machine, must also be a minimum. Both of these objects, that is, minimum obstruction to the passage of solvent into '30 the work, and minimum amount of solvent carried into the air with each operation of the machine, are achieved by having a spring tensioned work-support with large open spaces and with a minimum amount of absorbent material to pick up solvent and carry same intothe atmosphere.

-'The springs 25 perform two important functions:-first, in maintaining the threads 26 under suitable tension; and, second, in providing the necessary stretchto allow for the upward movement of the lowerplaten 4. When the lower platen is in its down position, the position of the threads 26 is, as shown in Figure 1, approximately midway between the upper. platen 3 and the lower platen '4. But when the lower platen 4 5 is in its upper position, the threads 26 are pressed i upwardly against the upper platen, because of the pressure due to the lower platen. Since the frame 23-24 does not move vertically and since the springs 25 are anchored to this frame, a considerable stretch in the springs 25 must take place to allow for the movement of the threads 26.

It should be noted that the frame 23-44 is so constructed as to permit the lower platen 4 to move vertically upward through it without touching either the frame 23'24 or the springs 25.

Since the tray mechanism serves to introduce the work into the machine and likewise to take it out, it must be mounted so as to travel in and out of the machine. For this purpose'the frame is mounted on four carriages 21, one at each corner, each provided with two rollers 28 which ride on the two rods 29. The front of the machine is closed by means of a cover 30 which is provided 5 with a slot 3| to allow for the passage of the tray mechanism into the machine and out. It will be seen, on referring to Fig. 4, that the slot 3! is covered on the outside by one of the side members 23 when the tray mechanism is in its in position; likewise, when the tray mechanism is in its out position (shown by dot-and-dash lines), the other side member 23 closes the slot from the inside. To insure a closure of the slot against the escape of vapors, the side members 23 are faced with a soft backing material as indicated at 32.

' the pinion 10 mounted on shaft 1|. I also carries the gear 12 which in turn meshes with The front cover 30 is provided with an air duct 33 which runs parallel to and is immediately under the slot 3|. This duct is connected to an exhaust blower (not shown) which serves to carry out of the room'any vapors that may escape.

It will be observed that two of the carriages and their associated rollers are always inside the-- head and two of them always outside. The two external carriages are cross-connected by a bar 34 which engages the forked ends 35 of the two levers 36. The operation of these levers 36 will be described presently. The rod 5 which carries the lower platen is supported, as shown in Figure 1, in a tube 31' which carries at its lower end a fork 38 which is supported by the pin 39. The lower end of the rod 5 is threaded at 40 to permit of vertical adjustment of the lower platen 4. The rod 5 is turned down to a reduced diameter for the major portion of its length and-contacts with the tube only at the portions 4| having enlarged diameter.

This is to allow a small flexure of the rod 5 so that the lower-platen 4 can adjust itself to the upper platen 3 in the event of small errors in 49 and actuated by the air cylinder 50 through the short lever 5| attached to the cam 48. The air cylinder 50 is pivotally supported at 52.

The cam 48 performs three functions, namely:

first, to raise and lower the platen 4; second, to

move the tray mechanism in and out and, third to move the belt 6 intermittently so as to bring freshly moistened portions thereof into operating position with each stroke of the machine. The first function of raising and lowering the lower platen 4 is accomplished through the cam roller 43 and lever 42.

The second function, that of moving the tray mechanism in and out, is accomplished through cam roller 53 carried on the lever 54. The lever. 54 has an arm 56 extending to the other side of the'fulcrum 55. By means of a spring link 51 pivotally connected to the arm 56 at 58, the motion of the arm 56 is transmitted to the arm 59. 59 is shown in cross-section inFigure l and in side view in Fig. 2. The arm 59 is mounted on a rock is also accomplished by means of the cam roller 53 whose motion is transmitted by the rod H to the arm 62 (see Fig. 6.) by means of the pivotal connection 63. Pivoted on the arm 62 is a pawl 64 which is pressed by means of spring 65 against the teeth of the ratchet 66 as best seen in Fig, 6. The ratchet 66 is keyed to the shaft 61 which is journaled'in the cover 68 and also in the rear wall of the head I as shown in Fig.4. Also keyed to the shaft 61 is the gear 69 which meshes with This shaft the pinion 13 carried by shaft 14 as shown in Fig. 6. Shaft 14 also carries the driving pulley I shown in Figure l.

In order to transmit motion in the desired mannor from the cam roller 53 to the rod M, the rod 6| is prbvided at its lower end with a slotted portion in which operates a pin 16. The pin 16 is carried on an arm ll best'seen 'in Fig. '1, which arm H is keyed to the shaft 55, same as the arm 54. In this manner, motion-is imparted to the pin 16 when the cam roller 53 moves upward. During the upward part of the stroke of the system pin 16 and rod 6|, the pawl arm 62, as shown in Fig. 6, moves clockwise over the teeth of the ratchet 66 without imparting motion to said ratchet. In motion in the downward direction, however, the spring 18 pulls the rod 6| downward and through the ratchet opera'tes thetrain of 15 gears 69, 18, I2 and 13. In order to avoid unnecessarily high accelerations of the train of gears and of the belt which is driven by said train of gears, the pin I6 is free to return to its starting position by sliding down the slotted por- 20 tion 75. Motion of the gear train and the belts is obtained by means of the spring 18 pulling on the rod 6! as shown in Fig. 1. The speed ofp movement of the belt is regulated by the tension of this spring and'is not determined by the speed with which the cam roller 53 moves.

Power for operating the machine is furnished by compressed air acting through the air cylinders 46 and 58 controlled by the hand-operated valves 88 and 8|, shown in Figs. 3 and 10, and automatic valve 82 (see Fig. 10), which is actuated by compressed air froma port indicated at 83in cylinder 58, (see Figs. 1 and 10). The three valves 88, 8| and 82' are of similar construction shown in crosssection in Fig. 9. Referring to Fig. 9, compressed air enters at.84 and is normally prevented from going further by the valve disc 85 pressed against the valve seat 86 by spring 81. The cylinder 58 isconnected to the valve at 88 and is normally open to the'atmosphere' because the valve disc 89 is keptofi its seat!!!) by the. spring 81. n The atmosphere has free access to the chamber 9|. Compressed airv may also enter through the pipe" 92 into the chamber 93 and so force the piston 94 to operate the valve. The valve may also be 4,5 operated by means of the-arm 95 carried on the shaft 96, to which shaft a valve handle" may be connected as shown at 91 or 98, inFig. 3.

A circuit diagram showing the air. connections is givenin Fig. 10, which also includes a foot reiO-lease valv'e'99, as will be explained. Referring to Fig. 10, the compressed air line is connected to the system at |8| and is piped to the valve.

- 8|. By 'depressing the handle 9], the compressed air is admitted to the pipe'l82'and can get no.

, further unless the handle 98 is also depressed.

In this way,'both of the. operators hands .must be used to operate the system,.as a safety feature. From valve 88 which is operated by the lever 98, air is fed to the pipe I82 and thence to j .60 the cylinder 58,. When cylinder 58 has completed its stroke, approximately, it opens the .port indicated at 83, in Fig. 1 and Fig. 10, and thereby supplies compressed airthrough pipes 183 and I84 to the chamber 93 (Fig. 9) in both valves 65 88 and 8|, holding both of these valves in the openposition, In other words, the piston 94 shown in Fig. 9 acts. as a holding device on the valves 88 and 8| so that the operator does not have tokeep his hands on the handles 9'! and 70 98 after the piston of cylinder 58 has'completed through the pipe |86 tothe pressure cylinder 46. In order to effect release of the valves and the restoration of the cylinders to their normal po- 1 sitions, the foot valve 99 is provided which permits the chamber 94 in each of the valves 88, 8| and 82 to discharge into the atmosphere through pipe I81. This operation merely shuts off the compressed air from each of the cylinders and opens them to the atmosphere. The actual return of the pistons is effected as follows :'---spring 488 acting on cam 49 restores piston of cylinder 58, and spring I89 acting on lever 42 restores piston of cylinder 88 and also serves to keep the cam roller 43 in contact with the cam 48. Spring I I8 acting on arm 56 serves to keep the cam roller 53 pressed against the cam, and at the same time serves to eflect the return stroke of the tray mechanism. The compressed air control system is known in the art andis not claimed as part of 20 this invention.

The operation of the machine is as follows:- when the tray. mechanism is in the outward position as shown by the dotted lines in Fig. 4, the collar A" or other garment part is laid smoothly on the tray. mechanism as indicated in Fig.5. 'Ihe'operator then depresses'both' the handles 91 and 98 which'thereby feed compressed air tothe cylinder 58; This cylinder rotates the cam 48. During the first part of the stroke, due to the relative positions of the cam rollers 53 and 43, the cam roller 53 is raised,'whi-le the cam roller 43 remains in its initial position. Raising of the 'cam roller 53 serves to move the tray mechanism to the inward position indicated by the full lines in Fig. 4, thereby carrying thework into themachine. At the same time, the rod 6| is moved upward, thereby increasing the tension on spring l8 and at the same time operating the pawl arm 62 so that everything is in readinessto move the belt onthe return stroke. During the latter part of the motion of the cylinder 58 and the cam 48, cam roller 53 moves no further, but cam roller 43 is moved upward, carrying the rod 4| and tact with the upper platen 3, due allowance bein made, for the thickness of the belt and of the 1 50 work. When the stroke of cylinder 58 is approximately completed, the port 83 is opened, thereby holding open valves 88 and 8| and also operating valve 82 which thereupon operates cylinder 46.

" This cylinder, acting through the lever 42, ap-

pliesa definite known pressure on' the lower platen 4, and therefore applies a definite predeterminated pressure onto the work. After aspecifled-interval of time, which-usually is around ten "seconds, the solvent has acted .sufflci'entlyon the work and the foot valve 99 is depressed. This releases'the compressed'air from both the 'cyl-' inders and connects them to the atmosphere, as I previously described, thereby permitting spring 6 cylinder 46 before cylinder 58 has completed more than half its stroke. During the first part of the return of cylinder 58 and cam 48, cam

. roller 53 remains unmoved but cam roller 43 drops to its normal posklonrtlmreby restoring the are'shown in Fig, 11).

platen 4 to its normal position. During the latter half of the return stroke of the cam, cam roller 53 drops to its lower position, being pressed against the cam by spring IIO. This operates the tray mechanism on its-outward stroke, as previously described, carrying the workout of the machine. At the same time, pin'IG drops to its normalv position, thereby permitting spring I8 to pull down rod I which operates the gear train through the ratchet 66 and thereby moves the belt. Thus the belt presents surfaces freshly wetted with the solvent for the next stroke of the machine. I

The mechanism heretofore described represents a power-operated press intended to provide maximum efficiency and output under factory operating conditions. Where the output is not large,

however, or under other circumstances where the expense of the full power-operated mechanism would not be warranted, results can be achieved by means of a much simpler device which is diagrammatically illustrated in cross-section in Fig. 11. head of the machine is shown in this figure.

Referring to Fig. 11, I2I represents a hollow casting with a well I22 running lengthwise along the rear of the casting and filled with solvent I23. I24 represents a flat steel plate running lengthwise of the machine and supported on the base of the machine by the lugs I25. flat plate I26 is slidably mounted in the head by means of a pair of rods I2'Ioperating in bosses I28 (only one rod of the pair I21 and one boss I28 Surrounding the plate I24 over upper and lower surfaces except at points of attachment is a padding I29 whose ends dip into the well I22 and are thereby wetted withv the solvent I23. Similarly, plate I26 is surroundedby padding I30 which is also wetted with the solvent, as indicated. The front of the machine is closed'by means of plate I3I-carried by the cast frame I32. Plate I3I is provided with an elongated slot I33 through which the work is inserted into the machine. If desired, slot I33 may be kept closedeby a. suitable lid except when workis being put into or taken out of the machine.

In operation, this machine is substantially the same as the one previously described. The pads I29 and I30 are kept constantly wettedlwith the solvent by means of capillary flow. The heightof the solvent I23 may be regulated in any manner known in the art and may be maintained at any desired level so as to insure free wetting of the pads. The collar or other article to be processed is inserted into the-machine through the opening I33 and laid smoothly on the lower pad I29. By-

means of a toggle mechanism or other suitable device (not shown) the plates I24 and I26 are pressed-together and maintained under pressure for the desired length of time. The pressure is then released and the work is taken out of the machine, and the next collar or other work is inserted.

In either type of machine, the amount of solvent which the collar or other work picks up is regulated in several ways. First, by varying the thickness of the paddings I29 and I30 in Fig. 11, or of the belt Ii in Fig. l, the total amount of liquid solvent available can be varied. In the form shown in -Fig. 11, the amount of liquid can be further varied by adjusting the level of the solvent I 23. Finally, it is important to note that the amount of pressure applied determines the amount of solvent which the'work picks up, because application of pressure squeezesthe solvent It is to be understood-that only the Another out of the padding or belt immediately, so that the greater the pressure the less solvent remaining on the belt or padding and hence the less solvent available for the work to pick up. Adjustment of the pressure is therefore an important function in'this machine, and it is on this account that in the form shown in Figs. 1 to 10, I do not use a toggle mechanism but a straight leverage cause large variations in pressure, which is avolded by the leverage system shown in the accompanying drawings.

It has been found in practice that best results are obtained by maintaining the work under mechanical pressure while it is moist with solvent. Our interpretation of this phenomenon is as follows:-adhesion being obtained by means of cellulose derivative yarns interwoven with the lining, which yarns lose their identity as yarns in the process, due to the action of the solvent, the strength of the adhesion will depend on the hold which the cellulose derivative has on the two outer plies. By maintaining pressure on the collar or other work during the interval when the cellulose derivative is softened and peptized, a certain amount of penetration of the cellulose derivative into the yarn of the outereplies is obtained. Thispenetration, although it cannot be allowed to proceed too far lest it affect the surface appearance of the work, nevertheless does insure a materially stronger adhesion than is obtainable without it. I

The articles to be processed, such as the collars usually about five to ten seconds, depending upon the nature of the fabric; and are then taken out and, while still damp with the solvent, inserted in a hot press whereby pressure and heat are applied to'evaporate the solvent and to complete the adhesion of the plies.

I have herein explained the principles of my invention and the best mode in which I now contemplate applying the same, but I .am aware that many alterations and modifications in the'con-' struction of the machine and the practice of the process may be made, or may suggest themselves to those skilled in the art, without departing from the spirit and scope of the invention. 7

What I claim is:-- I -f 1. In apparatus of the character described, a pair of oppositely disposed pressing members, means'for effecting movement of said pressing members one with respect to the other, a work.

pair of oppositely disposed pressing members,

means for effecting movement of said, pressing members one with respect to the other, a work support comprising an. open frame and means for holding the frame in fixed position during relative movement of the pressing members, a plurality of spaced work-supporting elements resiliently mounted on the open frame to permit such elements to be moved by one of the pressing elements toward the other pressing element in the pressing operation.

3. In apparatus of the character described, a pair of oppositely disposed pressing members, a work support between the pressing members, a fabric below the, work support and between the same and one of the pressing members and means for keeping the fabric wet with a liquid solvent, said work support being of open work design to permit application therethrough from the fabric below the same to the article upon the same of the solvent carried by the fabric.

4. In apparatus of the character described, a pair of oppositely disposed pressing members, a work support between the pressing members, a fabric below the work support and between the same and one of the pressing members and means for keeping the fabric wet with a liquid solvent, said work support being resilient and of open work design to permit application therethrough from the fabric below the same to the article upon the same of the. solvent carried by the fabric and to permit the same to yield and be carried by one pressing member toward the other pressing member in the pressing operation.

source of liquid solvent to prevent escape of fumes of the solvent.

6. In apparatus of the character described, a pair of oppositely disposed pressing members, a work support between said members, a fabric between the work support and one of the pressing members, a source of liquid solvent for keeping the fabric wet, a housing enclosing the pressing members, fabric, and source of liquid solvent, together with the work support when the parts are in position for pressing, said housing having an opening in one side thereof, and means for moving the work support through the opening between pressing operations to permit removal and placement of articles on the work support.

7. In apparatus of the character described, a pair of oppositely disposed pressing members, a work support between said members, a fabric between the work support and one of the pressing members, a source of liquid volatile solvent for keeping the fabric wet, a housing enclosing the pressing members, fabric, and source of liquid solvent, together with the work support when the parts are in'position for pressing, said housing having an opening in one side thereof, and means for moving' the work support through the opening between pressing operations to permit removal and placement of articles on the work support, the work support having means thereon for closing the opening against escape of fumes therethrough when the work support is in position for removal and placement of articles.

: BENJAMIN LIEBOWITZ. 

